The Underrated Cuisines of India

Published in the Sunday Mumbai Samachar on 13 April 2025

India is home to an incredible range of food traditions shaped by local ingredients, unique cooking techniques, and centuries of cultural influences.
Last week, I had the opportunity to attend an Odia cuisine festival in Mumbai - a rare and delightful experience. As I enjoyed each bite, I couldn’t help but think: why don’t we talk more about cuisines like this?

In India, we often celebrate the cuisines we know best - the creamy gravies of North India, the crisp dosas of the South, the rich Bengali sweets, or the spice-laden Rajasthani thalis. But beyond these well-known favourites, India is home to an incredible range of food traditions shaped by local ingredients, unique cooking techniques, and centuries of cultural influences.

One of the best ways to discover these hidden gems is through regional cuisine festivals. If you ever come across one in your city, I encourage you to go! It’s an incredible way to experience authentic flavours, learn about local ingredients, and step beyond the usual dishes we are accustomed to.

So today, let’s step beyond the familiar and explore some of India’s most underrated cuisines - the flavours you might not have tried but absolutely should.

1. Odia Cuisine

When people talk about food along the east coast of India, Bengali cuisine often takes the spotlight, but Odia cuisine - from the state of Odisha - remains one of India’s most underrated food cultures. Rooted in simplicity and natural flavours, Odia food is light on oil, rich in regional ingredients, and deeply influenced by temple traditions. It relies on subtle spices, mustard oil, and slow-cooked techniques to enhance the flavours of its dishes.

One of the most defining aspects of Odia cuisine is its strong connection to the Jagannath Temple in Puri. The temple’s famous Mahaprasad - a meal cooked in earthen pots over wood fires and offered to Lord Jagannath before being served to devotees, is a cornerstone of Odia food culture.

Odia cuisine also has a coastal touch, with a variety of fish, prawns, and crabs cooked in mustard-based gravies. And for those who love vegetarian food, Odisha offers some of the most unique dal and vegetable dishes, often cooked with coconut, raw mango, or jaggery for a perfect balance of flavours.

Must-Try Dishes

Dalma – A nutritious dish made with lentils, and vegetables, and tempered with panch phoron (a five-spice mix).

Chhena Poda – Odisha’s most famous dessert, this baked sweet is made from fresh chhena (cottage cheese), sugar, and cardamom, giving it a caramelised, smoky flavour.

Macha Besara – A classic Odia fish curry cooked with mustard paste, garlic, and turmeric, giving it a tangy and pungent flavour that pairs beautifully with steamed rice.

2. Kumaoni Cuisine

Nestled in the Himalayan foothills, Kumaoni cuisine comes from the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand and remains one of India’s most underappreciated mountain food traditions. Kumaoni food is simple, hearty, and designed for sustenance in cold, mountainous terrains. It relies on local grains, pulses, and minimal spices, yet delivers robust flavours that reflect the region’s natural bounty.

Kumaoni cuisine is deeply tied to the hills and forests of Uttarakhand, using wild greens, grains like mandua (finger millet), jhangora (barnyard millet), and pulses like bhatt (black soybeans).
Kumaoni dishes use very little oil and rely on mustard seeds, cumin, turmeric, and coriander for seasoning. Dairy plays a significant role, with locally made ghee, buttermilk, and curd frequently used in cooking.

Must-Try Dishes

Bhat ki Churkani – A thick, protein-packed curry made from black soybeans (bhatt), slow-cooked with local spices and best enjoyed with rice.

Aloo Ke Gutke – A flavourful dish of spiced, stir-fried potatoes, cooked with mustard seeds and dry red chillies, often paired with local dal and rice.

Bal Mithai - A fudge-like dessert made from roasted khoya (reduced milk) and coated in tiny white sugar balls.

3. Mappila Cuisine

Kerala’s coastline has long been a meeting point for cultures, and Mappila cuisine - the food of the Muslim community of Kerala’s Malabar region, is a testament to this rich history. Influenced by Arab, Persian, and local Kerala traditions, Mappila food is an exciting blend of spices, coconut, rice, and fragrant meats, creating a unique culinary identity that’s both exotic and deeply comforting.

What sets Mappila cuisine apart is its harmonious fusion of Middle Eastern and South Indian flavours. The Arab traders who arrived on Kerala’s shores centuries ago brought with them ingredients like dry fruits, saffron, and meat-based dishes, which merged beautifully with Kerala’s coconut-rich, rice-dominant cuisine. The result? A range of dishes that are both fragrant and indulgent, with a heavy emphasis on slow-cooked biryanis, stuffed breads, and seafood curries.

Unlike mainstream Kerala food, Mappila cuisine uses less tamarind and more yoghurt or coconut milk for tanginess, giving the dishes a creamy, mildly spiced profile.

Must-Try Dishes

Pathiri & Kozhi Curry – Pathiri is a soft, paper-thin rice flour flatbread, traditionally served with spicy Malabar chicken curry (Kozhi Curry).

Thalassery Biryani – Unlike Hyderabadi or Lucknowi biryani, Thalassery Biryani is made with small-grain Jeerakasala rice, layered with aromatic spices and tender mutton or chicken, giving it a fragrant, mildly sweet flavour.

Meen Mulakittathu – A fiery red fish curry made with kokum (a sour fruit) and coconut oil, giving it a tangy, spicy kick that pairs beautifully with steamed rice.

4. Garo Cuisine

Northeast Indian food is slowly gaining attention, but Garo cuisine, from the Garo Hills of Meghalaya, remains largely unknown outside the region. Garo food is all about simplicity, fresh ingredients, and a love for smoky and fermented flavours. It’s a cuisine that reflects the Garo tribe’s deep connection to nature, using locally sourced bamboo shoots, sesame, dry fish, and wild herbs.

One of the most defining aspects of Garo cuisine is its use of fermentation. Ingredients like dried fish (nakham), bamboo shoots, and even local greens are fermented to enhance their flavour, making them rich in probiotics and great for digestion.

Must-Try Dishes:

Nakham Bitchi – A spicy, warming soup made with dried fermented fish, chillies, and rice water. Do’o Kappa – A unique chicken curry cooked with black sesame seeds, giving it a deep, nutty flavour unlike any other chicken dish in India. Pura (Smoked Meats) – Pork or fish, slow-smoked over firewood for hours, giving it a rich, smoky taste.

5. Kodava Cuisine

Hidden in the lush hills of Coorg in Karnataka, Kodava cuisine is an earthy, spice-laden, and meat-heavy culinary tradition shaped by the region’s warrior past and rich natural surroundings. Kodava cuisine embraces bold flavours of black pepper, curry leaves, and kachampuli (a local sour vinegar).

Must-Try Dishes:

Pandi Curry – The legendary Kodava pork curry, slow-cooked with black pepper, curry leaves, and kachampuli vinegar.

Nool Puttu – Also known as string hoppers, these delicate rice noodles are served with spicy meat or coconut-based curries.

Overall, India’s culinary landscape is vast, and lesser-known regional cuisines are waiting to be explored. Seek out regional food festivals, visit speciality restaurants, or try cooking these dishes at home. You might just discover a new favourite!