The Art of Tasting Menus A Global Culinary Experience

Published in the Sunday Indian Express Magazine - Eye on 28 July, 2024

Let's delve into a booming trend in the gastronomic world that’scaptivating food enthusiasts everywhere!

If you have ever checked out my Instagram account (@patilneil) or listened to any of our podcasts, you will know that I have a profound love for food. One of my biggest motivations for travelling is the opportunity to explore diverse culinary landscapes around the world. So today, let's delve into a booming trend in the gastronomic world that’s captivating food enthusiasts everywhere: tasting menus.

A tasting menu is a carefully curated collection of small, artfully crafted dishes served as a single meal. Designed to showcase the chef’s creativity and the finest seasonal ingredients, these menus offer diners a journey through a variety of flavours, textures, and culinary techniques. Tasting menus can range from a few courses to an elaborate sequence of up to twenty or more courses, providing a comprehensive and immersive dining experience.

My own adventures with tasting menus, that started with the Omakase in Tokyo, a Japanese tasting menu tradition, have taken me across the globe. Each of these tasting menu experiences has played a role in expanding my palette and understanding of different cultures.

First-ever tasting menu experience in Tokyo

I certainly believe that the rise of tasting menus in the global culinary scene has opened doors to extraordinary gastronomic experiences for travellers like you and me. These menus often highlight the chef's signature dishes and seasonal ingredients, providing a snapshot of the local culinary landscape.

So let’s explore some of the world's most remarkable tasting menus (ones that I have experienced).

Spain: Mirador de Ula, San Sebastin

Perched high above the scenic city of San Sebastin, Mirador de Ula offered not only breathtaking views but also an unforgettable culinary journey. My tasting menu experience here was a celebration of Basque cuisine (cuisine from the north of Spain), masterfully crafted by Chef Rubn Trincado. The menu seamlessly blended traditional flavours with innovative techniques, featuring dishes like the ‘Cuttlefish Ravioli with Squid Ink’ and the ‘Red Mullet with Basque Piperrada’.Each course was a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage, beautifully presented and bursting with fresh, local ingredients. The combination of stunning views of San Sebastin and exceptional food made dining at Mirador de Ula a truly memorable experience.

France: Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Bordeaux

When it comes to tasting menus in France, wine is an essential part of the experience. In the heart of Bordeaux, known for its world-class wines, Chteau Smith Haut Lafitte offers an exceptional wine tasting menu. This esteemed estate, nestled amidst picturesque vineyards, is a paradise for wine enthusiasts.

The wine tasting menu experience at Chteau Smith Haut Lafitte was a curated journey through the estate’s finest vintages. We could savour the complexity of Grand Cru Class wines (a high-quality wine from a winery that's been around since 1855 at least), such as the robust and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and the rich, aromatic Merlot. Each wine was thoughtfully paired with foods that enhanced its flavours, creating a harmonious tasting experience. What made this experience even more enlightening were the detailed explanations provided about the winemaking process, and the distinct characteristics of each wine.

Japan: Sushi Ichiyanagi, Tokyo

On my second trip to Tokyo, I experienced an unparalleled omakase that truly captured the essence of traditional Japanese sushi. Located in the upscale district of Ginza, Sushi Ichiyanagi is led by Chef Masakazu Ichiyanagi, whose dedication to the art of sushi is evident in every meticulously crafted piece.

The tasting menu at Sushi Ichiyanagi was a celebration of the freshest seasonal ingredients. Highlights included the melt-in-your-mouth toro (fatty tuna) and the perfectly balanced uni (sea urchin). If you have never tried sea urchin, the next time you are at a Japanese restaurant, be sure to ask if they have uni - it’s a delicacy worth experiencing.

Each course at Ichiyanagi was presented with precision and simplicity, allowing the natural flavours to shine through. This serene and intimate experience left me with a deep appreciation for the subtleties of Japanese cuisine.

Thailand: Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, Bangkok

At Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin in Bangkok, diners are treated to a unique and theatrical reinterpretation of traditional Thai cuisine. Located within the luxurious Siam Kempinski Hotel, this Michelin-starred restaurant is the brainchild of Chef Henrik Yde-Andersen. The tasting menu here blends authentic Thai flavours with modern culinary techniques, resulting in dishes that are both visually stunning and tantalisingly delicious.

I had the pleasure of trying this exceptional tasting menu with my friend Tarun and we were treated to signature creations including the ‘Tom Yum Kung’, a deconstructed version of the classic soup, and the ‘Frozen Red Curry’, which plays with textures and temperatures. Each course at Sra Bua is designed to surprise and delight the senses, making it a standout destination in Bangkok's vibrant dining scene.

These have been some of the best tasting menus I have experienced in all my travels. But before I end today’s piece, I also wanted to talk about my tasting menu bucket-list! So here it is:

Denmark: Alchemist, Copenhagen

Alchemist in Copenhagen is not just a restaurant  it’s an immersive, multi-sensory journey. Chef Rasmus Munk’s avant-garde tasting menu challenges conventional notions of dining with its theatrical presentations and thought-provoking themes. Each of the 50 courses (yes, you read that right! 50 courses), such as the ‘Edible Plastic’ dessert highlighting environmental issues or the ‘Blood Diamond’ dish addressing ethical concerns, is designed to engage diners in conversations beyond the plate. The experience at Alchemist is as much about storytelling and social commentary as it is about culinary innovation.

Singapore: Labyrinth, Singapore City

Labyrinth in Singapore redefines the concept of local cuisine with its ‘New Singaporean’ tasting menu. Chef LG Han’s creations are deeply rooted in Singapore’s culinary heritage, yet reimagined with modern techniques and unexpected twists. Signature dishes include the ‘Chilli Crab Ice Cream’ and the ‘Hainanese Chicken Rice’, presented in ways that surprise and delight. Labyrinth’s focus on sustainability and local produce adds another layer of uniqueness to this dining experience, making it a standout in Singapore’s vibrant food scene.

Spain: Enigma, Barcelona

Enigma in Barcelona, conceived by the renowned chef Albert Adri, offers a dining adventure that lives up to its name. The tasting menu here is a labyrinthine journey through multiple themed rooms, each presenting a different course in a unique setting. Dishes like ‘Frozen Air’ and ‘Octopus with Paprika Air’ are as intriguing as they are delicious. The enigmatic nature of the experience, combined with Adri’s culinary mastery, makes Enigma a fascinating and unforgettable destination.

So that’s my list. Do you have a list of restaurants that you want to visit around the world? I would love to hear about it so I can add them to my list too. You can write to me at neil@veenaworld.com So let me end with this. It's evident that these culinary experiences are more than just meals-they are a celebration of culture, creativity, and craftsmanship. While some tasting menus come with a hefty price tag, it's important to note that exceptional culinary experiences need not be prohibitively expensive. Many restaurants around the world offer reasonably priced tasting menus that still deliver extraordinary quality and creativity. And as travel has taught us, exploring local eateries and lesser-known gems can yield surprising and delightful discoveries without breaking the bank.

So, which tasting menu destination will you explore next? The world is full of culinary treasures just waiting to be discovered. Bon appetit!