The land of the Incas!

Published in the Sunday Navbharat Times on 22 September, 2024

I stood at the top of the world—or at least it felt like it. The evening sun dipped behind the towering peaks of the Andes, casting long shadows across the mountains. This vast mountain range, stretching over 5,500 miles (8,900 kilometers) from the southern tip of South America to the northern Caribbean coast, is one of Earth’s greatest natural wonders. And here I was, at Machu Picchu, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. It felt surreal, standing where the Incas once stood, taking in the beauty of this ancient citadel. Visiting this legendary site had always been a dream, and now I was here—for the second time. I was actually living my dream.

Yet, Peru is so much more than Machu Picchu. It’s a land where modern cities meet ancient temples, where colourful markets brim with local crafts, where the majestic Andes rise above tranquil valleys, and you can be surrounded by the lush depths of the Amazon rainforest.

What makes Peru so irresistible for travellers like us? Let me take you through my journey, and by the end, I guarantee you'll be packing your bags!

My adventure began in Lima, Peru’s bustling capital, that blends rich colonial history with modern vibrancy. The heart of Lima is the Historic Town Center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I made my way towards the central square, Plaza Mayor where the grand Lima Cathedral dominates the Plaza Mayor with its magnificent Baroque and Renaissance architecture. Dating back to 1535, this cathedral features stunning wood carvings, ornate chapels, and the tomb of Francisco Pizarro, Lima's founder. Nearby, the Archbishop’s Palace, with its elaborate wooden balconies, and the Government Palace, where the president resides, complete the historic square's stately ambiance. After diving into Lima’s colonial history, I headed to Miraflores, a trendy seaside neighborhood. Famous for its Love Park (Parque del Amor), a spot known for its romantic views of the Pacific, Miraflores offers a modern contrast. Walking along the cliffs of Miraflores, I took in the ocean breeze and explored Larcomar, an open-air shopping center perched above the sea. Nearby at Playa Makaha, I felt a mix of awe and envy as I watched surfers skilfully ride the wave  in the pacific ocean. Next time, I will try it too, I promised myself!

From there, I ventured into the bohemian Barranco district, known for its vibrant art scene, quaint cafés. I enjoyed browsing in Dedalo, an art gallery filled with contemporary Peruvian art and crafts. Speaking of art, no visit to Lima would be complete without exploring the Larco Museum, home to one of the world’s most impressive collections of pre-Columbian art. Housed in an 18th-century mansion, the Larco showcases Peru’s ancient history, from intricate gold jewelry to remarkable ceramics with a staggering collection of over 45,000 artifacts.

Leaving Lima behind, I flew to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire. The moment I stepped off the plane, I felt as if I had traveled back in time. Cusco, set high in the Andes, is a city where the Quechua language, the language of the Incas, still thrives alongside Spanish, brought by the colonial settlers. Walking through Cusco’s narrow, cobblestone streets, it’s easy to see the blend of Incan and Spanish influences in every corner, from the grand Plaza de Armas to the intricate stonework of Qorikancha, the Inca Temple of the Sun. Once covered in gold, Qorikancha’s walls were stripped by the Spanish, who built a Dominican monastery over the sacred Incan temple. It’s a stunning fusion of two worlds, where ancient meets colonial. I just couldn’t have enough of Cusco and made my way back to explore the city at night. All of Cusco, particularly Plaza de Armas wears a magical glow at night and is simply stunning!

Cusco’s history runs deep, even before the Incas. The city was once a lake, and during an excavation, scientists discovered 25,000 dinosaur fossils in the region. It’s astonishing to think that beneath the city streets lies a history stretching back millions of years.

No trip to Peru is complete without visiting Machu Picchu, and it was the highlight of my journey. After a scenic train ride aboard the Peru Rail, we reached Aguas Calientes, the gateway to this ancient wonder. A short bus ride later, and there I was, standing in front of the awe-inspiring ruins of Machu Picchu. Perched high above the Urubamba River, Machu Picchu is a marvel of Incan engineering and spirituality. Our guide led us through intricately carved stone temples, plazas, and terraces, explaining how this site was a sacred spiritual center for the Incas. The views were simply breathtaking, with mist-shrouded mountains rising all around us. It felt like the world’s edge—a place where the earth touches the sky. I could feel the spiritual energy as I sat down admiring this wonder. No wonder it was revered by the Incas.

Another fascinating stop in Cusco was Sacsayhuamán, an enormous fortress that overlooks Cusco. The massive stones here fit together so perfectly that not even a sheet of paper can slip between them. This site also played an important spiritual role in Incan culture, hosting Wak'as rituals, where special offerings—including children—were sacrificed to appease the gods. These ancient practices reveal the Incas’ deep spiritual connection with the universe and their belief in maintaining harmony with nature.

The Sacred Valley is another must-visit destination. One of the most impressive sites here is Moray, a series of circular terraces used by the Incas for agricultural experiments. From Moray, we continued to the Maras salt mines, where over 4,000 salt ponds glisten in the sunlight. Dating back to the Inca era, these salt mines are a stunning example of ancient ingenuity.

After my time in the Andes, I ventured into the Amazon Rainforest, flying into Iquitos. Located in the northeast, Iquitos is the gateway to the world’s largest rainforest. The Amazon can be visited from Peru and Brazil both. The accommodation here is quite basic but eco friendly and reminds us of how careful we must be about building sustainable solutions to safeguard our future.

One of the highlights of my time in the Amazon was the fishing expedition hen I managed to catch a catfish and even the deadly piranha!  It was fun visiting Monkey Island, a rescue center for endangered but playful monkeys. As the sun set, we took a nighttime boat ride, listening to the sounds of the jungle come alive—a chorus of frogs, insects, and nocturnal birds under a sky full of stars. We even managed a night time trek and interaction with the local communities that call Amazon their home. Its as heartwarming to meet school children who hold on to their culture but are learning the ways of the world!

For food lovers, Peru is a culinary paradise. Peruvian cuisine is a unique fusion of indigenous ingredients and global influences from Spain, Africa, China, Japan, and more. In Miraflores, I had my first taste of ceviche, Peru’s national dish made from fresh fish marinated in lime juice. I also tried lomo saltado, a stir-fry of tender beef with onions and tomatoes, and pachamanca, a traditional Andean dish cooked with hot stones in the earth, which also had many vegetarian options. Cusco’s high-altitude climate calls for something warm, and coca tea—made from the leaves of the coca plant—became my go-to drink. Not only is it delicious, but it also helps with altitude sickness. I also learnt that coca leaves are one of the main ingredients of soft drink giant Coca Cola’s secret recipe! Another must-try was chicha morada, a refreshing drink made from purple corn and the famous cocktail, Pisco sour.

Peru is a country that has it all—breathtaking landscapes, ancient history, vibrant culture, and incredible food. Whether you're exploring the bustling streets of Lima, standing in awe at Machu Picchu, or venturing into the wild Amazon, Peru will leave a lasting mark on your soul.